Have you ever wondered what New Year’s in Japan is like? How about in the cultural heart of the country, Kyoto?

I know my first time spending New Year in Japan was a bit of culture shock. For Westerners, New Year’s can conjure up images of one boisterous night of champagne, crowds, loud parties, and of course the inevitable hangover on the 1st. 

In contrast, New Years in Japan (Oshougatsu) lasts 4 or 5 days, is a calmer, much more family-centered holiday, and focuses on special foods and traditions.  The streets are mostly empty and strangely quiet, especially for Tokyo!

Oshougatsu for most people involves travelling back to their family town and spending a few days simply eating, sleeping, watching TV, and taking it easy. It’s rare time to relax and take a much-needed break from work or school.

For a good many others, however, it’s a time to take a long-needed vacation. While many Japanese pick sunny, warm, island destinations (who can blame them?), I wondered how the biggest cultural holiday of the year is done in Kyoto - the cultural heart of Japan.

 

Getting there from Tokyo

There are a few ways to get to Kyoto from Tokyo and it all depends on your budget and travel style.

One option is to fly to Kyoto from Tokyo by way of Osaka Airport. The flight takes about an hour followed by a 1-hour bus ride to Central Kyoto. The one-way cost is roughly from 16,000-23,000JPY.

Highway buses are another option, but require 7-8 hours of travel. The cost is lower with one-way fares from 3000 up to 10,000JPY for premium bus lines.

The most common (and hassle-free way in my opinion) is by the Shinkansen (bullet train). The JR Tokaido Shinkansen takes anywhere from 2 ½ to 4 hours (depending on the train) and cost is roughly 13,000Y for a one-way, non-reserved seat. If you travel on to Osaka or Hiroshima after Kyoto, Japan Rail Pass would be a good deal 

Purchasing your ticket the day before can reduce the cost, as well as having Japan Rail Pass for visitors. I took the fastest train (Nozomi) with a reserved seat in the ‘Green Car’, which has larger, more comfortable seating. It was quite a bit more expensive, but very comfortable!

 

What to do in Kyoto during New Year’s

Being the cultural capital of Japan, there are numerous ways to enjoy this special time in Kyoto. Here are a few including traditional foods and the visiting of temples and shrines. Kyoto is famous for both!

Nishiki Market

The most important meal of the holiday is called Osechiryori. This elaborate meal is served in layered trays and is eaten over the course of 2 to 3 days starting on the 1st .  Every dish has special meaning symbolizes something significant for hopes in the New Year.

Although most busy Tokyoites commonly buy ‘osechi’ pre-ordered in department stores these days, the tradition of making it at home lives on in Kyoto. There is a ritual rush near the end of the year to gather the needed ingredients at local markets before they’re all gone.  It’s quite a sight to see and no better place to do so than Kyoto’s famous Nishiki Market.

The market is always popular and can be enjoyed any time of year, but its at it’s most lively at New Year’s. Various smells and sights delight the senses amidst the calls of storeowners trying to draw in customers. Be prepared for a tight squeeze, as the market’s long, single aisle is very narrow!

Kaiseki Ryori

If you want a real treat while in Kyoto, be sure to try the most traditional and refined Japanese meals, Kaiseki ryori, With its origins in Kyoto, Kaiseki ryori is a mutli-course meal, served dish by dish, and features the many styles of Japanese cooking (steaming, grilling, simmering …) while using seasonal ingredients.

Since Kyoto is also famous for tofu, I wanted to try a Kaiseki meal featuring yudofu (boiled soft tofu). Using the many cooking methods combined with different sauces, spices and flavors, it was incredibly tasteful and beautifully presented. Kaiseki is truly an art and as much a delight for the eyes as it is for the mouth.

Kiyomizudera Temple

 

Another Oshougatsu tradition is hastumode, a Shinto-based tradition involving visiting the local shrine. It’s common to do hastumode on New Years’ Eve, although it can be done anytime during the first few days of the year. Despite the potentially long, cold wait in line, they commonly pass out amazake (sweet-rice sake) to help keep everyone warm while waiting.

Arguably one the most notable temples in Kyoto, I thought Kiyomizudera might be a great place to make my new year’s wishes and give thanks. The temple was built in the Heian period and dates back to 778. The name comes from the nearby waterfall and means ‘pure water’. The view from the main platform is astounding and one of the best in all of Kyoto. Because of this, it’s usually very, very crowded, no matter what time of year.

To avoid the expected huge crowd, I arrived at opening time, 6 am. Although there was still a short line, it was much less than normal and with less people, I could really enjoy the silence and ambiance of this magnificent temple. If you plan to visit and are an early-riser, I would recommend getting there as early as possible.

Oshougatsu is a very special time in Japan and very unique, as are most traditons in here. If you have the opportunity, Kyoto is a wonderful place to enjoy this festive time.