Expectations vs Reality - Inaka Life

Nov. 29 Thurs by Andrew Things to Know

Most people first encounter Japan through Tokyo. It's certainly exciting and new for a lot of people, but it's not a normal Japan experience for people actually living in the country, especially the natives. However, people looking to travel or even live in Japan often seem apprehensive about going outside Tokyo to experience the inaka, or "countryside." That's a real shame, not just for those of us who choose Kansai in Japan's East vs West regional friendly rivalry, but because life outside of Tokyo is so much more... Japanese!

1. Expectation: "No one speaks English!"

Tokyo and other large cities have more skilled English speakers because so many foreigners work and visit those places. The rest of Japan is different though. While Japanese people have to study English (3-6+ years, depending on their generation and education level), many can understand general English even if they cannot speak it. 

This is an important distinction, as many westerners fluent in Japanese often miss visual cues from locals indicating that, yes, they are understanding any questions and even any unrestrained criticisms. Japanese politeness will often be maintained, but it may be best to reserve those comments until you're out of earshot. If you're having communication issues and don't speak Japanese, try using English like you would your high school foreign language option- simple but slightly formal. And be patient! It can really get people to open up and even treat you like a local. Check out this blog on some basic Japanese phrases as a guideline too!

*Reality: Most Japanese understand English, but speaking can be difficult.*

2. Expectation: "It's hard getting anywhere in the countryside."

Even the most rural, rice-field filled Japanese towns feel much less distant than the American countryside equivalents. Still, it's a concern people have, so let's lay out a few things. First, you can actually drive in the Japanese inaka. You can technically drive in Tokyo too, but there's a reason why so many people use the Tokyo trains. The more inaka you get, the easier it is to drive. It's not just wider roads (if that), but less parking fees and battles to find a spot.

With less traffic comes other benefits too! If you love biking and walking the inaka has more space, more nature, and generally fresher air. With the increased safety and space, it's even easier to commute to work by foot or by bike.  This makes it easier to maintain your physique... and to stay healthy, of course! A lot of people talk about the dietary differences between Japan and the rest of the world, but commute exercise is probably a big factor too.

Admittedly, if you prefer a motorized commute, the countryside trains and buses may not come around as often in the inaka, but your chances of having a spot to sit increases. Riding the bus in Los Angeles may let you read a book or play a mobile game, but in the Japanese inaka, you have enough room to sit and get work done on your tablet, before and during your train commute, which is great for people who get home and just goof off. Or you can just take a power nap without learning to sleep standing up. Sorry, Tokyo!  

*Reality: "It may take longer to get anywhere, but you have more options."*

3. Expectation: "There's nothing to do in the countryside!"

"Inaka" is sometimes applied to anyplace outside of Tokyo's 23 Special Wards. However, Tokyo Disneyland isn't in Tokyo, it's in Chiba, and there's lots to do there. Dōtonbori, one of the most famous places in Japan for food, isn't in Tokyo, it's in Osaka. And you probably won't stumble upon Haniwa or Dogu just walking around parks in Tokyo, but you can in a town so 'inaka' that their mascot is just a map-headed creature pointing to the city. In reality, the inaka foreigners often visualize would be almost any non-Tokyo city in Japan.

Also, just so you can see that mascot, here's Kamisu Koko

Not all inaka are the same. Yes, some are quiet fishing towns with mostly children and grandparents, but not all of them are. Utsunomiya City locals think their town is "inaka," but you can easily walk to a mall going straight north, south, east, or west from the main train station. Festivals are so intense that people wait out storms outside to continue celebrating. The local park has a small zoo and a shrine to a famous sumo. They have hot yoga, trading card game competitions, and go-kart racing, but also local breweries, kendo tournaments, and school cultural festivals that are open to the public.

Saitama is considered an inaka by some

The biggest difference between Utsunomiya and Tokyo is that not every event in Utsunomiya is advertised in English. That holds true for a lot of inaka towns, which is only natural. After all, we go abroad to experience a different culture. Tokyo is good for tourists, but inaka life is good for travelers. Inaka is about what you make of the place. There's a lot to do if you know where to look!

*Reality: There's plenty to do outside of Tokyo, you just have to look a little harder.*